2008年9月29日 星期一

瑞士day 2 : Luzern-Pilatus(Golden Round Trips)

抵達Luzern時已經是十點半,在Luzern火車站內左看右看地好不容易才找到Locker,Locker容積不小,二人的四件大行李正好可以放滿,但是一個就要6chf.,此時才發現身上並沒有零錢,只好拿著十元紙鈔在火車站的小攤販買了一個4cfh.的小熱狗,接著又到地下一樓的COOP買了瓶礦泉水充當這幾天的水壼,來來回回地換了一些零錢,好不容易零錢換回來了,但也開始感受到瑞士的高消費物價。
 
放好行李就準備前往皮拉特斯(Pilatus),原本從SBB列印出來的車次表Luzern Bahnhof,Trolley bus 對於初入陌生國境的我們站在火車站前發呆了一下,ㄟ...到底在那裏?
只好走到鐘塔前方附近的巴士詢問巴士司機,巴士司機不太會說英文,也不太清楚Trolley bus 究竟在那裏,但還是很熱心地幫我們問了其他司機究竟Trolley bus在那裏,原來就在火車站旁左手邊候車處,穿越人行道就到了。
所有的一切開始變的很新鮮,要按紐才開門的巴士,全是聽不懂的德文,我們只靠著手上列印好的時刻表確認下車站,心裏剛開始七上八下,深怕下錯車,後來卻發現瑞士火車巴士都非常準時,不僅會將站名在車上顯示,而且到站時間都超級準時,之後幾天就都是用"手錶"定時來確認什麼時候該下車。

到了Kriens,Linde-Pilatus,還需要走差不多15~20分鐘的上坡路段到Kriens PB,這段登山纜車和 齒軌輪火車需要自費,持Swiss Pass半價仍需要32chf.。
登山纜車速度超快,一下子就把我們帶到半山腰,途中還可聽到叮叮噹噹的牛鈴聲,我們這些都市人,一看見大片草地及可愛的牛群和羊咩咩,都不禁興奮得叫了起來!到了Fräkmüntegg即換成可搭載40人的中型纜車,不到幾分鐘就到了山頂。


皮拉特斯山位於琉森西南15公里處,高2132米,瑞士眾多群山之中,皮拉特斯山最具神祕色彩,有相當多龍的傳說,故亦有龍山(Dragon Mountain)之稱。向南遠眺,可見白雪皚皚的阿爾卑斯山,向北眺望,可見德國黑森林,景觀可謂一流。
可惜到了山頂,天候開始漸漸愈來愈昏暗,最後竟然還下起雨來,還不是很了解瑞士氣候的我們,並沒有帶多餘的禦寒外衣,就在山上冷的直打哆嗦,躲到室內才發現...又溼又冷的10度...><...從台灣帶來的雨傘,在第一天開張就撐壞了。


因為山上實在是太冷了,於是我們受不了低溫就只好提早乘坐齒軌輪火車(Cogwheel Railway)下山遊湖,不愧是最大傾斜坡度高達48%的齒軌輪火車,火車有特別的設計,就算上山或下山有多斜,人依然可以水平地站著或坐著,下山就像溜滑梯一樣安安穩穩輕輕鬆鬆地快速下降。可惜這段路程的景色比上山時感覺遜色些,大多是岩塊和森林,也許也是長途旅行的疲倦,在火車上真的是有些睏了。
乘坐 Cogwheel Railway 片段--


這段遊湖真的好美,沿途都是瑞士童話般的房屋,而且持Swiss Pass免費,輕鬆自在的一個半小時遊湖觀光行程,真的比花錢的行程還過癮...... :P

遊完湖回到Luzern,即前往今晚的住宿地先放置行李後,再做Luzern市區觀光,YH的簡單地圖在下巴士時全無用武之地,東張西望的往前走,想看看是否有標示圖,結果一位大姐用手指指前方,示意我們往前走,穿過長長的下坡階梯,又走了一段路,我看她是想帶我們到YH附近,即和她聊了起來,大姐是巴西人只會超簡單的英文單字,但我們仍比手劃腳的溝通,其實真的很難找,因為就像是住宅區的小徑一樣,每條路長的都一模一樣,等到快到YH時,她示意她要走另一條路回家,就和她留下一張回憶照留做紀念。

  Luzern YH check in 之後讓我們對今晚的住宿失望到底,不僅隔音超差,而且房間小到不到四坪,充電孔還故障,跑去和櫃台申訴卻被她們以每天都確認過,所以應該沒問題的理由堅決不到來房間檢查,也不願意讓我們更換房間,只願意幫我們在櫃台充電,後來想想反正只住一晚就不想再花心力爭取,於是拿了我們的充電器交給櫃台就出發市區觀光。

我們延著Zürichstrasse坐車Löwenstrasse站下車,從獅子紀念碑開始往穆塞格城牆(Museggmauer)最後再到卡貝爾橋(Kapellbruecke),出發時已經是晚上七點,所以城牆早已關閉無法在上面行走,但卡貝爾橋則是愈晚愈美,昏黃的燈光照在古老木制廊橋的彩繪圖畫上,彷彿走入時光隧道。

逛完卡貝爾橋也差不多是晚上九點,天色已經全黑,氣溫也下降的很快,我們選了一條和下午不同線的巴士到YH,結果...不知道是我們迷糊錯過還是真的沒有YH所指示的站,車子愈走愈偏僻,車上乘客也幾乎都下光了,最後竟然到了終點站,趕緊跑到巴士前方問司機,但司機似乎聽不懂英語似的不讓我們問他問題,最後示意我們在一個只有一盞路燈及一家沒有營業的商店前下車,然後笑笑地用德語叫我們往前走......

被趕下車後,還搞不清楚方向,忐忑不安的往司機指的黑漆漆小徑走,小徑裏有家BENZ工廠,結果Roterto竟然說她好像有些印象,原來是下午我們走另一個方向時,她有印象有曾看過BENZ工廠,大伙終於放下心中的大石頭繼續往前走,才發現出門時拍的瑞士版壞人照片"Mother's pride",就在小徑的對面,經過千辛萬苦才回到了YH,大家也累到說不出話來...早早就上床休息,也結束了混亂的第一天旅程。

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